04 - Glue, Fill, Sand, Repeat

November 14, 2019


Your armor isn't going to get ready for painting by itself . . .

It would be great if we all had access to a warehouse or locker room full of parts all finished and laid out for us . . . but unless we get cast as Disney Characters or Extras in the next film . . . (and sometimes not even then!)

Scary as it might be . . . it's time to get to work!


(Most people I've talked to have said that first cutting / gluing / patching experience is a bit . . . scary.  So if you feel that way, you're not alone!)

Even the best kit of armor is very likely going to need some adjustments to fit your body type, some filler to fix those typical imperfections that come with any 3D print or mold . . . AND you're going to have to do SOMETHING to get the parts to attach to each other when you put them on.

I KNOW painting is the exciting part . . . believe me!  But don't rush to get there Too Soon.  Taking your time now to make things "just right" (or as "just right as you can") will lead to a much more satisfying result.





The first thing to do is to identify the parts that need filling.  Reef taught me that the best way to do this is to look over each piece carefully and circle items with a pencil.




You'll want to identify and cracks (like on my Thermal Detonator Pack - left) and any "holes or indentations" (like on my Thigh piece - right).



Circling with a pencil will help you know how much work you have to do and help you keep from missing anything.

And Don't Worry!


The pencil marks will be hidden by the primer later, so you won't even need to erase them (though you can if you'd like).











For repairing cracks and filling holes I chose to use Bondo brand automotive filler putty.

It comes in two parts that need to be mixed together.  The bulk of it is a gray putty that is a bit "sludge-like" in viscosity.  That's the stuff in the can.  The second part is a pink "hardener" that comes in a tube.

FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND BE SURE TO HAVE PLENTY OF
1) ventilation (be outside if you can!)
2) warm soap and water to clean your hands
3) rags, paper towels
4) tools for mixing and spreading





WARNING:  It sets up FAST.  That means:
- if it gets on your clothes it's Not coming out
- don't mix up more than you can use before it sets (you'll only mix a little bit at a time)

(Reef has a philosophy of "mixing just barely enough"; I would rather waste a little than not have enough to do what I want to do right now)

Mix on a paper plate or in a small plastic dish that you intend to throw away.  DO NOT pour the hardener into the can!!!  If you do, you'll be buying a new can.

In my first go I mixed some on a big piece of cardboard, which was fine but I had to discard the cardboard when done with that session.  Now I mix on a paper plate.  Less to discard and I like the "safety" that the edges of the plate offers.










Here are some pictures of the Bondo on my Thermal Detonator Pack.  Because the crack was significant I applied it pretty . . . "thick".  That means more sanding later, but that's not as hard as it sounds.

We used 5 Minute Epoxy to glue things like Snaps and Magnets.     
                                                                                                                  We used stronger Epoxy for things like Greeblies on and gluing the front and back Shin pieces together.  The Blue Painter's Tape helps to hold things together while they dry.                                                                                                                                                                        We also used a lot of clamps.                                                                                                                                                                                      Like Bondo, Epoxy dries quickly so don't make up more than you can use at any one time.                                                                                                                                                                                                We left the inside seam of the shins un-glued and will be using Industrial Strength Velcro there so that the Shin pieces are easier to put on.  Reef's idea.  He's a genius.                                                                                                                                                                                   *Note:  With the Jim Tripon kit there wasn't a whole lot that needed to be glued Nor trimmed.  Everyone's experience will vary.

Magnets and snaps were added inside the Yoke and Chest Plate.

The snaps will be used to attach the Shoulder Bells to the Yoke and the sides of the Yoke to each other.  (We'll manufacture some elastic straps with snap ends for the sides, and non-elastic straps for the Shoulder Bells.)

 These ARE NOT "regular magnets".  We got rare earth magnets (Super strong!  They can be tough to remove and will happily pinch your skin into a blood blister if they're given the chance.  Like the package says, DO NOT let children play with them.)

  

The circles on the out side (in pencil) helped us line up the magnets.  We would "sandwich" the fiberglass pieces between the magnets, then circle the outside magnet, take the inside magnet off and put epoxy on it, then use the outside magnet (in the circle) to help us line up the magnet with epoxy in the right place.

IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP, EGON:  Reef says "Be wise about putting the Epoxy cap back on correctly.  If you try to force (no pun intended) it on 'backwards' then any residue in the cap may activate the liquid still in the tube . . . and That Means that you'll be throwing it away and buying more Epoxy".

These pictures so some of the Bondo after having been sanded smooth.  First with 120 grit sandpaper, (80 grit where it was "super chunky"), and then 320 grit to finish it off clean.  Get it smooth, but don't sand so aggressively that you damage your armor.